Hair Thinning Shears: Avoiding the Thinning Scissors Effect

Ruined! Mutilated! Damaged beyond repair! We call those accusations the Thinning Shears Effect.

Just ask TikToker keswickmoore, whose hair suffered  serious breakage after a bad run-in with hair thinning shears. It was only after three years of healthy haircare that she got her length back.

“It resulted in a haircut on top of a haircut and a bunch of unwanted layers,” keswickmoore said. “Never again will I get my hair thinned.”

So if hair thinning is so bad, why do hair thinning shears even exist? Do they just have a bad rap? How do you use thinning scissors safely? What is the proper way to use thinning shears (without catastrophic results)? We answer these top hair thinning shears questions below.

What are hair thinning shears? And how do they work?

Hair thinning shears are a type of scissors. Unlike typical hairdressing scissors, which have straight blades for slicing and detailing hair, hair thinning shears have one straight blade and another blade with teeth like a comb. The shears’ teeth cut only a portion of the hair strands to cut it into even sections.

Do hairdressers still use thinning scissors? Why do barbers use thinning scissors? What is the purpose of thinning shears? And what do shears do for hair?

According to Scissor Tech, you might pick up your hair thinning shears to:

• Soften a haircut.
• Add texture.
• Remove unwanted bulk or weight.
• Blend out a short or layered cut.
• Save time cutting thick or coarse hair.

“Hair-thinning shears can be a really great tool when you are looking to remove internal weight in certain areas within your hair,” said Los Angeles-based stylist, Xander Fuentes, in an article for Byrdie. “They can create a very soft look…. [Or], when your hair is sitting way too flat, hair thinning shears are a great option because of the way they can create a shattered look.”

When and how can hair thinning shears cause problems? 

What is the disadvantage of thinning shears?

While hair thinning shears can be great, they can’t be the star of the show. They don’t have what it takes to change the shape or structure of the cut like typical scissors, says Scissor Tech. Hair thinning techniques are  more of a finisher, which is why Fuentes recommends them only for the last 10 percent of the haircut.

Even when you’re using them sparingly, thinning shears can cause problems. Examples from ScissorTech:

• Going too close to the scalp with thinning shears can lead to too-short hairs that stand straight up.
• Using thinning shears excessively can make the hair unpleasantly thin at the ends.
• Improper use can cause hair to feel weak, thin, and brittle.

If your hair thinning shears do lead to a bad cut, it can take a long time for your clients’ hair to grow back. (Like the THREE YEARS it took keswickmoore’s hair to return to normal.) So if your client doesn’t like how you’ve thinned them out, they’re more likely to panic and complain.

How do you use thinning scissors safely? 

Before you toss your hair thinning shears in the trash, read this: You can use thinning shears safely. In fact, if you master your hair thinning shears (and your clients’ expectations), you can deliver better cuts. 

Below, find tips on how to properly wield your thinning shears (and avoid the “Thinning Scissors Effect”).

Get your clients on board.

Just because you have a vision doesn’t mean your client shares it. 

So before you use thinning shears on thick hair, even a teensy bit, ask if they’re okay with it. Explain what you want to do and how much, and make sure they consent. Otherwise, you run the risk of an upset client.

Make sure their hair is dry.

Before you start thinning, your client’s hair needs to be dry. When it’s dry, you can better see the effect of your cuts as you go. So remember to blow dry before you thin.

Use hair thinning shears sparingly.

We know you’re thinking about that client who wants their hair curled and it takes like 50 layers. Some clients’ hair can be so thick! 

But the solution isn’t robbing them of all the texture at once. Instead, start small. Thin a bit and then reassess. You can always thin more, but you can’t thin less.

To avoid cutting more than you want to, work on one section at a time. You can use clips to control the sections of hair, suggests ScissorTech. You may need to cut the same section multiple times. But be sure to comb it through to remove loose hair and assess how it looks before diving back in.

Cut from the middle to the tips.

As we mentioned earlier, taking these shears too close to the scalp is a big no-no. Thinning shears aren’t for roots! Cutting too close and short with thinning shears will lead to spiky, sticky strands.

To avoid this, barbers at 12 Pell recommend thinning from the middle to the tips. By not going shorter than mid-strand, you keep hair lying flat.

Beware of curly and frizzy hair.

Should you use thinning shears on curly hair?

No. In fact, did you know that using thinning shears on curly or frizzy hair can make it frizzier and more prone to split ends and breakage? Scissor Tech explains:

“The reason lies within the hair. No two strands of hair are the same on a person’s head. They are all growing at different rates. When you make a cut, the individual strands that help weigh down other strands spring up at a different curl elasticity for each individual strand, causing the unwanted frizz.”

So if your client is curly and frizzy, sheath the shears.

Don’t leave client complaints to “shear” luck.

Now you know how to use the hair thinning shears in your arsenal. But even if you thin it to win it, a client can still complain about your service. And that hairdresser or barber complaint can lead to a lawsuit.

With WellnessPro Insurance in your corner, you’ve got skilled helpers ready to duke it out for you and your business. Our coverage can protect you against the toughest claims in the hairdressing game–like overprocessed hair and slips and falls. Click here to apply for our hairstylist and barber insurance.